The Stall Turn was good practice for using both thumbs and getting a feel for the heli in abnormal flying positions.
Your head speed should now be well adjusted for idle up and the tail rotor revo mixing. The heli should be close to being able to fly fast forward flight, in idle up, without climbing, diving, or rolling. If adjustments are needed they will be small, but will make a difference.
Most radios will have a stunt trim adjustment. Usually a little down (forward cyclic), left cyclic, and left tail rotor will be needed.
Only 3 to 5 percent should be needed for cyclic. (trim heli with 3/4 tank of fuel – when full heli will dive a bit, empty it will zoom)
Your control setup should start approaching maximum throws, using some expo (especially on fore/aft cyclic), and your normal flying only requires minimal stick movement. No more hauling the sticks around from corner to corner for normal flight.
Head speed is more critical, 1500-1600, to ensure quick response if you screw up.
NOTE*** Head Speed is more critical than lots of Pitch. No matter how much pitch you have, if the head speed decays, you will be in a lot of trouble. A head speed of around 1700+ will prove optimum once the collective/throttle curves are set for more advanced flying.
Your Stall turns have taught you that it takes little Aft cyclic to get the nose pointing up and heli will carry some speed vertically for a while. At least I hope so.
Loops can be done many different ways. Your first will be surprisingly easy.
First Loop Attempt
You are flying by (Fast), about 50-60 feet up (300 if your eyesight is good), INTO the wind, (if any), and at 3/4 to full collective.
Start to pull Aft cyclic slowly, leave everything else alone, as the heli goes past vertical continue pulling a little more Aft. Once the heli is at the top of the loop and fully inverted, you can pull the rest of the cyclic and release to normal just BEFORE the heli appears to be upright and level.
Releasing to ‘neutral’ late will cause the heli to zoom back up and kill what little forward speed you have left.
Your first loops will resemble the small letter e to begin with and you will have gained altitude but at reduced forward speed. The ‘head’ may gain a fair amount of speed during the down leg (pulling positive pitch while inverted), or bog a little due to additional cyclic pitch. (Idleup curves now become more important)
Just keep practicing to get the feel of the loop. After a while you can start varying the collective settings, on entry, at the top, and on the down leg of the loop to get them nice and round. By varying the Collective and Aft cyclic you will learn what is most effective and desirable.
Extremely large loops are possible with high entry speeds and very small loops are better performed with reduced forward speed.
By lowering the collective pitch a bit as you go over the top and then decreasing pitch even more during the downward leg, the loop will be much rounder and exit height will be much closer to entry height with much more forward speed built back up. Just remember to read collective at the very bottom of the loop.
Your two thumbs will be going in different directions at times so think it through BEFORE you do it.
After a short time you could try a variation of the loop, a traveling forward tumble.
Actually real easy.
At a moderate forward speed just pull full ‘aft’ cyclic, followed almost immediately with full ‘negative’ collective, once the tail has rotated past the forward position just reapply full ‘positive’ collective and release ‘aft’ cyclic when heli is flying forward normally again. It’s over before you have time to panic.
Now burn another gallon or two of fuel and ROLLS will be next.