Shuttle engine question (for Colin?)

[darren_uk]

The most I've ever done with my Shuttle Z-TS is taken the glow-plug out.

I suppose I ought to check the carburettor to ensure it doesn't have any bits in it?

But that cooling shroud looks like it won't come off without taking the engine out.

And I don't want to loosen the engine bolts (let alone remove the engine) in case I fail to line it up with the clutch again.

Perhaps I'm being too complicated: Is it safe to remove the engine for cleaning/inspection (I mean, will it be foolproof to put it back in the right way such that it won't shake itself to bits or damage the clutch).


Any long-term storage tips re the engine sought too: the last time it was in storage for several months, I had to take a wrench to the hex-starter shaft to get the engine to turn. I'm sure that took a few hours off the engine's life :-(

[colin]

Hi Darren,

All engines need periodic maintenance even when in storage.

I've put my shuttle in storage many times as well, and after 1 or 2 months, the engine freeze up.

I'm using a pull start engine (OS.32) so I don't really have the problem of not being able to crank the engine with a hex starter. But I do get the problem with pulling the string at least a hundred times to get the damn thing to fire up.

What I then did later on, is to use WD40 as a after-flight oil. After flying, remove the glow plug, and then use your starter to crank the engine till it is dry.

Then generously spray a bit of WD40 into the glow plug hole and then crank the engine again. (put a tissue in the glow plug hole or you'll get a messy place when the WD40 goes purting out.

If your heli is in storage, do this at least once a month, and your engine will not sieze up.

Good idea to also run your engine to hover speed maybe once every 3 months or so. At least you will loosen any rust or whatever that may form inside the engine.

As to disassembling the engine. I'm not too ambitious about that. I've removed the engine completely from the shuttle, but getting it properly aligned back in could be a problem. Usually, the clutch alignment could be slightly off, and you'll find the blade engaging very suddenly instead of smoothly and slowly if the alignment is off.

Cheers

[rotorz]

You can get the carb off an OS without removing the engine however, if all is running well dont go there, I have to agree WD40 is a good afterun oil and not using caster based fuels helps even more, also after long periods of storage throw the glow plug in the bin a new one is better than autorotation practice.
Happy landings

[colin]

Strange Rotorz, I prefer the pink fuel. I used the green one last time, and 1) It stinks (I mean it smells!)... and 2) My engine didn't want to fire up after just 1 month in storage. With castor fuel, I don't get such problems.

Maybe I just bought a lousy stock..... who knows

[rotorz]

Hi Colin.
Do you mean I am strange? I would have to agree.
Choice of fuel is like chosing a partner, whatever makes your heli happy. My choice of synthetic is a very personal one and the type I use now was not available when I started out it was Caster based or Caster based. I changed to synth about ten years ago and the first benefit for me was there is a distinct lack of sticky gob to clean off.

It is not the lubricant that causes the problems as we all know it is the agressive components in the fuel that attack our precission engines, with the cost of a good engine nearly as much as the aiframe it is worth the time invested in after care. I have a pinch valve on the fuel line and always run the engine dry when I have finished flying for the day, then lubricate.

As an aside I am a true fan of the Shuttle, I learnt some very scary aerobatics both ways up with it, if I still flew 30 size heli's it would definately be my main weapon of choice.
Happy Landings