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#1
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| I made my first attempt to get my O.S. .32 started in my new Caliber, with no luck. I've used these types of engines before on planes (Extra 300, ect.), and have been successful. I had my needle adjusted to 2-turns open (as per manual), perfectly glowing plug, good fuel, and experimented with various throttle settings. Plus Side: The engine did try to kick over a few times, the engine did become very warm after a little while, and I did see some light smoke coming from the exaust. After I was done, I tilted the heli back, and fuel ran out the exaust pipe. ??? I will make attempt #2 after I get off work tonight. Hopefully with more luck. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks! Jesse Last edited by Jesse : 05-07-2003 at 11:50 PM. |
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#2
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| Good news, and even more bad news. First the good... Using a hex starter shaft, and a good electric dril, I got it to start. It took a WHILE and didn't happen until I began to pinch the fuel line with the throttle open about half way. It is a LOT quieter that I imagined. By the way, should I switch to a regular RC starter motor, as it might have a higher RPM/torque? BAD NEWS: On my next attempt to get my engine started, I subsequently stripped my Stater Coupling, a $19.99 part at HeliProz. THIS IS VERY FRUSTRATING!!! :-( I would guess that this may have somthing to do with using a drill... ??? I haven't even gotten to the point where I might have a chance to leave the ground, and I'm already having to replace parts. Oh well. Lessons learned. If anyone would like to teach me any other lessons, I'm sitting front-row-center. Thanks guys, Jesse |
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#3
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| 2 turns open is a bit high. Try one turn first. If you still find it hard to start it, you might have to adjust the throttle screw, which is the screw that you need to use the small screw driver to get at at the throttle lever. What heli are you flying it with? |
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#4
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| I'm flying a Caliber 30 (currently only flying in G2 Simulator). Thanks for the advice. As soon as I am able to make another starting attempt, I'll try those things. By the way, the Starter Coupling isn't completely stripped, just my start shaft dosn't make positive contact any more. However, using a regular hex wrench, I am able to turn the engine. QUESTION: Would there be any problems with using a regular hex bit? All of the starter shafts that I've seen have oddly shaped, bevelled edges, not allowing for maximum contact on the starter coupling. Are there any reasons for this shape? Jesse |
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#5
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| Hi Jesse, Basically, the most important thing is being able to properly turn the engine. Really doesn't matter what kind of coupler you use, so long as it doesn't slip. |
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#6
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| Ok, thanks. I did go ahead and purchase a starter motor, starter coupling, blade holder, and a spare starter hex shaft. I tried to save some money in this area, but as I have found, short cuts don't pay off. Jesse Last edited by Jesse : 05-10-2003 at 02:11 AM. |
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#7
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| Hard to start OS32 I had problems starting my caliber that came with the OS32 engine. I couldn't get it started unless I turned the needle valve way in. When it did run it was going through fuel like grease through a goose. My problem (I also posted this as a reply to someone else in the engine forum) is the fuel mixture setting was WAY off. If you haven't looked yet I would suggest you do. This condition also made me get cylinder lock. So much fuel in the cylinder the engine wouldn't turn. I would be careful with the drill since it sounds like this MAY have been what happened to you too. If you get cylinder lock and try to force the engine it is possible to damage the engine. Let me know if the mixture setting was the problem or not. Happy flying... This is what you should see. Last edited by HeliTick : 05-14-2003 at 07:01 AM. |
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#8
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| I started this message a while ago, but I just stumbled acrossed it again. I figured I'd add in the part about why I couldn't get my engine started. :-) I mentioned in my first post I was using a drill. What a dummy. That was my problem. A drill can't (at least none of the ones I own) spin at a high enough rpm to properly start the engine. I eventually figured that out and bought a REAL starter. The reason my starter coupling wore out so fast was because of all the wear I put on it by taking the drill in and of of it. Lesson learned: Don't cheap out on necessary equipment; like a starter. It cost me an extra $20 on top of the starter for a new coupling lost due to negligence. In the mean time, I've already upgraded to a TT39 Pro engine, which seems to work great! Lots more power. Just have to figure out how to stop it from producing so much smoke and getting hot.......another forum topic........ Caliber30.com |
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