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Originally Posted by CCCmaster I have mounted a 1.2G wirless camera to my dragonfly 22e, There is no point unless you use a lipo battery or your flight times will only be 1-2 mins and youll be hard up geting more than 3 foot of the ground. Instead of using the 9volt bat i have succsessfully routed the power from the 11.1volt lipo with no dramas, with the stock 370 brushed main motor it wont last long it will over heat in time but not before you tail motor, to disipate the heat i have added heat sink to the tail motor and am upgrading the main motor to a 180L Brushless with heat sink and a 30A Speed controller, upgraded plugs to deans (a bit of extra weight but with the 1300aMh lipo its prolly best) its about 100gms over weight but flys for around about 10 mins and with the extra weight it has beter penitration and can be flowin in stronger conditions reaching hight is no problems it has plenty of power climb with the blades balanced down to 0.00g it flys sweet BUT MY POINT IS IF YOU ADD A CAMERA YOU MIGHT AS WELL DO ALL OF IT however its easly afordable and i use a portable DVD player for an LCD screen via Cam corder to record the image on the field the wireless transmiter is powered by the 9volt bat clip suplied with the camera so can be compleatly wireless. (now my only problem is interfierance to the camera reception due to the motor and gearbox). |
Look here;
http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=5/13321234535.jpg&s=f5
You will see the cam in the cap all the way out front.
Now the 22e model probably doesn’t give you the room for this but the name of the game is to get the camera as far away from high amprege current lines as possible. I found the wires coming out of the batteries and the wires going to the motor to be the biggest problem. ANYTHING less then 3 inches and wam!!!! INTERFEIRENCE GALORE!! Lines of interfierence from the inductive magnetic lines of flux surrounding high current wires that are active cause this more so then the radio gear. I use a ferrit ring for the battery [11.1 lipo] to the receiver and BRAIDED the motor wires to help clean things up a bit.
The picture I displayed doesn’t show you the insulating steps I took to shield this electrical force, and that is SMOOSHING a big wad of tin foil in the cap to isolate the cam from the electrics and rapping the power supply [9 volt battery wires for the cam] in tin foil to shield out rf as well. My movies are fairly smooth now but do a last second tuning of the receiver before you fly!!! As the temperature of the cam goes up the frequency drifts ; BALANCING is a pain, to get your cam away from the high current wires in your case you may have to put the cam back under the boom and solder an extention of the battery wires so the battery [9v] can go up into the cappy. Keep a neutral balance or flying can really go stinks in a jiffy.
If you look at all my still pics in the website you can see I extended my cap forward so as to yield room and DISTANCE from the ESC/MOTOR/BATT supply wires.
I no longer am using a 6 volt camera battery , I went back to the 9 volt square battery due to short run times with the 6 volt.
Sum it up with this rule;
Place the camera as far away from the BATT cables/ESC/Motor wires as possible, even if you have to us a 15” carbon rod with the cam out front and the battery in back, that may be the solution to extend the cam away from the demons. Use tinfoil to make a firewall against rf interference as well, careful where and how much; tin foil in large quantities can cause snap crackle and pop lines in your vids and un-wantingly block your antenna from transmitting. I also modified a truckers TV antenna v-type to give me much better glitch free reception, no more chirp chirp snap as I fly. I made a GROUND plane disk for the antenna a certain size to make the antenna more resonate for 1.2 ghz frequencies. 600 feet without a glitch now.
Scott
06-16-2003, 12:41 PM
