Blade 400 Gyro

[helijames]

I'm having a problem with my gyro. when I lift off I'm getting ALOT of tail wag. I have tried changing every setting on this and I cannot get it to even slow down. this thing is wagging really bad. I turned the gain setting on the gyro all the way down and it didn't change anything. I have tried in rate mode and heading hold with no difference. any suggestions would be great.


Thanks
James

[hawkman]

It might not be the gyro or the servo at fault.

Try checking the tail drive belt, see if its a bit slack...if it is then it could jump a tooth or so and this would bring about the condition you described.

Other causes could be a faulty one way bearing...it could slip a little...check the motor and its little cog/pinion..is it nice and secure?

If it is loose then consider removing the motor...and remove its cog...and gently file a flat surface on the motor shaft....line up the grub screw with this when assembling...shouldnt slip ever again.

The only sure way to check its not the gyro is to unplug it...and plug the rudder servo into channel 4...and then hover the heli...but if you are learning I would not advise this...unless you fit a good training hoop to the skids.

Rob

[helijames]

Originally Posted by hawkman

It might not be the gyro or the servo at fault.

you're suppose to tell the gyro is bad so I will feel good about ordering the 401. J/K

I have been to busy today to even look at it. I might look at later tonight.


Thanks
James

[hawkman]

Heh! I have a GY401 and its a rock solid item....if you ever get one then please post on this site and ask away about the setup.

I had mine a while but the heading lock would not work...the book told me little and the paper that came with the gyro was well detailed but still shed no light as to my problem....in a fit of rage I dialled the gain and kept going...the N suddenly changed to an A (prefix) and suddenly the heading lock worked.

Just goes to show that the book for the radio doesnt always tell you things.

Setting up a friends GY401 the other week I rushed through it like a Pro

do check the heli over though...its rare for a stock gyro to be bad.

If you get the GY401 one day then opt for the 9254 servo...the set does work well together...the servo is metal geared too...so its pretty solid.

Rob

[helijames]

well I worked on it last night and it turns out the belt was a little slack. I adjusted it and it flies great now. I'm still thinking about that 401 because one day I would like to move up to a nitro heli.


Thanks
James

[hawkman]

Good to hear it, just goes to show that we can miss some details and blame the poor old gyro

I started off with nitro...had a ball...it was a Kyosho Nexus 30. It lasted me 16 flight hours before I stuffed it in during an autorotation exercise

There is quite a choice out there, I had a Hawk for a while. Nice heli.

The one I fly now is a Gasser Predator, quite a handful as its so fast but nice and stable though.

I would save the 401 for a nitro

If I ever get another nitro its going to be Trex 600N.

Rob

[helijames]

Hey Rob I have one more question and I bet you're the only that's going to answer so I will just ask you in this thread.

I hear everyone talking about using a bec to lower the load and temp of the stock esc. Is this just a patch for using the wrong size esc? I know my esc gets really warm and I worry about it shutting down and causing a crash.
so I am going to get a better one but will I still need a separate bec if I get the right size esc?


Thanks
James

[hawkman]

Interesting point.

I dont have that much experience on BEC stuff, but can understand why people use them.

With my Trex I had a lot of problems with lockouts and glitches which could mostly have been down to using FM radio...but I used to wonder about the ESC.

After another rebuild and test flight, using a new RX on PCM instead of the PPM I was using before...I crashed again. Luckily the training hoop fitted saved the day...just had to replace blades and main shaft.

I reduced the power curve on the radio and also revamped the pitch range to a nice sedate range of minus 4 to plus 10 degrees...with about plus 5 at mid stick.

I kept the power curve as a line actually, but have since started to increase the settings a little to keep a nice head speed as I reduce the collective...otherwise my little menace wont come down....it balloons about.

I reckon the ESC could well have caused trouble.

A long winded answer with no firm conclusion Its not going to hurt to fit a BEC if thats what you want. I would guess that the stock ESC will be ok as long as you dont demand too much...like powerful servos and motor and an insane power curve for all out 3D stuff.

I must investigate this for my Trex, along with a GY401

Rob