Blade CP Adjustments

[rockymag]

Figured I could share some of what I've learned about adjustments needed on the CP.

For blade shake check the following - Screws attaching rotors to grips could be too tight. Blades need to be able to swing into thier "happy" spot when bringing the head speed up. - O-ring dampers behind grips not flexing enough. Mine weren't seated correctly. - Blade tracking is all important. Because of the size, the pitch linkages may not allow for perfect tracking, but get it as close as possible. These adjustments/checks should clear up blade shake.

One last item, If you must replace a rotor blade, do both even if one looks fine. These are manufactured in sets and balanced as such. Only replacing one is asking for vibration/shake.

Hope this helps anyone with this problem.

Hey rockymag. Thanks for the advice on the landing gear. Sounds like the way to go. Looks like I'll go with the Blade.

[rockymag]

Why not go for it? Just consider the Blade to be as difficult to learn as anyother heli may be for the first one. One thing going in your favor on the get go is the cost outlay. I haven't seen a more "cost effective" means of getting into helis other than simulators. They work but there's nothing like the joy and fear of flying an actual model. Feel free to contact me @ my e-mail anytime if you don't want to wait on future posts. Happy Flying!!

[turco]

rockymag

i learned on ikarus FP picco heli not CP ...with FP is lower headspeed less cost at crash with less parts to replace...with my cobra ive crashed at least 30 times 10 Hard usually only Blade replacement and a few small parts about $15 on hard crash. i would say next to SIM FP heli would be cheapest start
and dont forget to Read Radds Flight school
http://www.dream-models.com/eco/flying-index.html
its a must Have for beginners

Keep it in the Air
Turco

[rockymag]

Hey Turco,
Thanks for the info. Since my post last night, I've gotten to a 90 degree right hover and held it there for about 15 seconds. I'm able to get it back nose out and land alright. Then I get to breath, keep forgetting to do that!! I no longer have any type of simulator software. I don't condone it and do recommend it for anyone else starting out or wanting to get a feel of a new airframe. I get bigger kicks flying on the edge I my living room. That's just me!

I also found that I had stupidly mounted the 2x3 prop on the tail motor in reverse. Normally when I install non-pusher GWS props, the writing goes out. That's not the case for the tail-rotor. Print side faces the moror. When installed reverse, it will still work, but sounds like a Zaggy at full throttle. Installed correctly not only quiets it down, but also allows you to dial down the proportion and gives a few more minutes run time.

I'll check out the site you recommended and see what I can glean. Nose-in hover can't be that far away. Happy Flying!!

[turco]

rockymag

LOL
nice i agree everyone kept saying Get real flight Sim first
but then its like for $300 i got my Bird with TX for that price
now i have real flight lite at $150 the trainer flies much like my electrics i use it now to stay flying when the weather is bad and try new tricks
Glad to here your flying

hey check out Radds flight school got me in the air without sim
http://www.dream-models.com/eco/flying-index.html

keep it in the air
Turco

So the blades don't have to be tightened fully in one position right?

My main rotor blades are loose and also the tail rotor blades are loose is this correct?

[dct]

I own a Honey bee cp2 and blade cp,, main blades should hold in same spot when you turn helicopter on it's side, with out falling... To loose and when landing a little to hard it will broom stick on you ( blades will fold up! not good ) point the noise of helicopter strait up,, blades leave , blades should not fall!! Shake it,, ((some..)) blades should move some....