Need advice on my Hawk

[hawkwindar7]

Greetings everyone...

I am a regular RC fixed wing pilot that has just bought a used (but in excellent shape) Hawk Sport IV. Prior to this purchase, I have only flown an Esky Honeybee micro-heli (no CP), which was tough to learn to fly (on my own, no doubt).

I bought the current Hawk at our RC club's swapmeet a week ago from a heli pilot from another state that was selling some of his inventory. I remember this particular heli flying well at our last fun fly and do know that it was setup correctly and flew well.

My problem is with finishing setting it up. It came with a new O.S. .37 that has about 4 hours on it, but no radio or gyro.

Now, for the pros on this site:
I just purchased a new Futaba 6EXH radio for it and am looking for a gyro. What gyros would be good for it and what should I stay away from?

Also, what extra req'd accessories should I order? (pitch gage, crash kit, starter rod, etc.) Any and all advice would be greatly appreciated.

Take into account that I already own the gamut of fixed wing RC accessories (starter, glow starters, etc.), plus, I also have been flying helis on my RealFlight G3 for a few days. I know I've got alot to learn and there will be some measureable difference between what I have flown (honeybee and the G3 helis), but am patient and want to take it slow.

This looks like it will be a great addition to my RC flying repitoire!

Thanks in advance for your help.

hawkwindar7

[hawkman]

I own a Hawk Sport...this is powered by an OS32 with a CSM HLG 200 gyro....which is very simple as its basically plug n play...the only adjustment is a 'gain' setting...this is to reduce/increase sensitivity of the gyro.

Cant see a problem with the Futaba radio....its a waste of time using a dedicated airplane radio...it can be done but it lacks flexibility especially with the all important collective/throttle curve setup. A couple of guys I know use the 6EXA version of the radio...they have limited control on those all important curves.....it can be done, no doubt, but why fiddle around when there are perfectly good heli radios....I use a Futaba FF7 which has been very easy to use....though the manual could do with more heli detail...it caters more for fixed wing.


I would get a heading hold gyro such as the CSM I mentioned earlier....you can get better types but if you are learning then nothing fancy is needed.
The Gyro I have holds the tail well enough...even in inverted flight.

Use that simulator till you get really good with it, I used a basic simulator for 10 months or so while saving for my first heli and equipment.....glad I used it because my learning curve was reduced and I could concentrate more on setting up.....which seems to be a 'Dark Art' its not that bad really....but do use this site for advice.

You are a fixed wing flyer, you already have a good knowledge of radios etc....helis are different....which is why they are soooo much fun:-)

I found that with fixed wing....once that plane was airborne then you are comitted to getting it back...in one peice preferably
Helis...well after some hovering and being comfy with that then its off into forward flight....gentle circuits are then not too far away.....then you get into 'nose in' hovering (nose towards you) then its yanking and banking as your confidence increases.

For equipment:

Pitch guage....very important....even changing blades can upset your pitch curve...this item is priceless

Paddle guages....I dont have these, I set mine by eye but they are next on my shopping list

Headloaders....useful as they bolt in place of your main blades...a 'rolling road' for your heli as you tweak your engines carb settings....they are not essential as such...but if you can afford it then why not.

Blade balancer...not super essential but good if you can afford it...you can make up your own of course.

Ball link pliers....very usefull item...much used on helis

Rod end driver...used with the pliers...this item makes rod end adjustment very easy

Loctite...used on helis a lot....essential

Remote glo unit....this is handy to fit instead of scrabbling around trying to find the glo plug....also helps prevent those take offs...with glo batt still attached....I have done this before...'eh? whats that thing attached to the engine head?'

Battery checker, on board type.....essential and you can see it through the canopy easily enough.

Starter shaft...definately need this

Fuel filters...you might use these already on your fixed wing....a very good idea on a heli....its a good idea to fit one on the muff pressure line too.

Crash kit....good idea...get two if you want plus some undercarraige legs/struts.....after one or two accidents you will be able to figure out what you really need. Quite a few things are easily straightened out and can be re used even feathering shafts and main shafts....with patience and care they can be salvaged..within reason.

The engine you have would be quite powerful.....my OS 32 does the job but could do with some more capacity.

A rubber/silicone muffler extension is a good idea....it will help keep the oil residue down. I sealed my muffler to the engine head, using epoxy...its worked well and the engine is as clean as the day it was first installed.

Well....I have probably sent you to sleep now;-)....do keep in touch and let this site know how you are progressing......please be carefull with helis though....there are some forces involved that require much respect...those bolts that hold the blades in their grips (main blades) are holding up to, and beyond, 100 kgs....blade tips can reach 400 mph+.....so things can get nasty very quickly if something goes out of balance or breaks down.

Attention to detail and patience are the two main virtues of RC heli operating/flying....if you have that then much fun awaits you:-)

Rob

[Daz(DJLFlapper)]

Just to add a few other items that crop up whilst your learning about things needed.

Its small but without it you will have a hard time tracking youre main blades, TRACKING TAPE.

Fuel line clamp, This is just incase you have that accident and pulling the fuel line off is difficult. One squeeze back off and the engine will sleep once more.

I agree that getting a cheaper rate and heading hold gyro is the way to go whilst learning. You don't need a rock solid tail for backward flight and it will Keep the cost down in a big crash should it come.

other items you may need after a crash are a spare main drive gear, Spare clutch lining, spare clutch shoes, hopefully youre tail rotor housing will survive but the tail drive may suffer so one of those is allways handy.

If you should break a set of blades, Don't forget to use epoxy to glue the blade roots in place. Don't wind the heli up without the blade roots glued, Nasty mess after. If there is plastic covering on the blade where the root sits. Cut it off around the root and then glue the roots in place. your ready to go when they have gone off/set.

Everything else really has been covered previous.
Your tool kit is the only thing that you need to change slightly from your fixed wing bits. Hope you have a great time with heli's. Good luck.

[hawkman]

With tracking tape...I do this:

Daz has hit on a very important note there with glueing the blade grips onto the blades.....the existing blades on the heli are probably glued? do check this out.

I have seen a Concept 30 DX flown with blades that were too fat....the grips were omitted so they could fit.....luckily the heli never flew properly so didnt get the chance to break apart in mid air.....a dangerous thing to do but the heli wasnt mine and the guy who said it would be ok to fly just never realised the forces involved....like I said before....loads of 100 kgs+

For tracking I use 50mm wide tape..I position the tape about 50mm back from the blade tip...one tape is red..the other is yellow so there is a good contrast. Any colours will do as long as you can see the difference. I keep both bits of tape in place as a permanant thing.....you can then see if the blades are out of track anytime you want.

Blades can be uncovered after a crash...they should be (assuming they are wooden, covered with heat shrink) because even if the blades appear to be ok you can not see if they are cracked. Never assume anything.

'tracking' is about setting the blades so they 'fly' or 'sit' equally....once the tracking tape is fitted and the blades balanced and fitted; the heli is then started up and brought to a hover at eye level.....the heli is kept well away of course. You can then see the different colours....if they are blurred together then the tracking is ok....if the red is higher than the yellow...and you are sure of this...land the heli and switch off....the pitch control rod attached to the blade holder..the red taped blade....is unfastened...or popped off...and then you would screw the link in...you will have to guess, but try half a turn..in. You will be shortening the control rods length.

The blade with the yellow tape can be adjusted too, try half a turn out...you should be lengthening the control rod.

These small adjustments will make a difference.....start your heli and hover again....land, switch off and readjust if needed....or if you have that nice blur of colour and the blades appear to be travelling on the same plane then you are good to go.....its worth keeping the tape in place for future adjustments if needed.

I realise this info is a lot...your heli manual should cover these details anyway....little adjustments and tweaks should produce a good handling heli which will make learning much easier and more fun.

Rob

[hawkwindar7]

Thanks a ton, guys. This is definitely alot of info to digest, but I'm taking my time and will adapt to it all.
I just received my radio (F 6exh) and have been bidding on a gyro. The previous owner told me the only one to get is the Futaba GY401, but what you said makes more sense. That one might be fine later, but a cheaper one that actually does the trick (?maybe the Century PG2000II?) would be the better choice now and when I do crash. I realize just like for a fixed wing, that the crash possibility is a given, not an if...just when. I also acquired some spare parts in the deal, so hopefully will have those needed on hand when the bird bites the dust.

Thanks again,
hawkwindar7

[hawkman]

The Century PG2000 II might be not all that great.....I have never used it personally but other flyers have commented on it....www.rotory.com...try this site and see what comments you get....I am a member there too under the same hawkman title.

You did the right thing getting the 6EXH radio....the EXA version is really for fixed wing....guys here have flown using this combination but dont have the flexibility of pitch and throttle adjustment.....there is some scope but its limited and there have been problems along the way.

Take a look at the CSM gyros....the HLG 200 is not the best and some flyers will snub it ....but I have had no problems.....it has a gain setting on the gyro itself....and it handles being flown upside down!!

Rob