Hawk Pro owner

I'm currently having problems starting my Hawk Pro heli. It has a Toki .40 engine, the problem I' experiencing is while starting the engine, my main rotor blade is attempting to turn as if the clutch is engaged. I've followed the setup instruction and have read it over and over again with no possitive results.

It appears to me, the clutch is engaged. As I spend the main rotor, I can hear the engine compression. I think I need help from the pros on this forum. Any help will be appreciated. I have the latest simulator G3, and have practice my hoovering and am starting to get very profecient. I also have my training gear for the the heli, just not start. Well it did start once, and after a minute or so, it stopped and hasn't ran since. The hex head also gets "red Hot".

[vcampos]

Hi 1g8tor,

I’ve seen this problem before. It sounds like the clutch is on too tight. You need to have just enough clearance for the clutch bell to spin freely. I am not too familiar with the Toki but here I go.

1. Go ahead and remove the clutch bell assembly.
2. Notice on the clutch, you might able to squeeze the head just a little, enough to get the clearance to make the rotor spin freely without turning the engine.
3. The clearance needs to be minor.
4. Place the clutch bell on the clutch, before tightening everything down make sure that the rotor is spinning freely. If its not repeat the above steps

If you can’t do anything to the clutch, you might be able to use some fine sand paper to reduce the clutch lining just enough to clear the clutch. Remember that the clearance needs to be minor.


I hope thins helps. Good luck.

Thank you Vcampos,

I will take that advise and realign the clutch assembly

Originally Posted by vcampos

Hi 1g8tor,

I’ve seen this problem before. It sounds like the clutch is on too tight. You need to have just enough clearance for the clutch bell to spin freely. I am not too familiar with the Toki but here I go.

1. Go ahead and remove the clutch bell assembly.
2. Notice on the clutch, you might able to squeeze the head just a little, enough to get the clearance to make the rotor spin freely without turning the engine.
3. The clearance needs to be minor.
4. Place the clutch bell on the clutch, before tightening everything down make sure that the rotor is spinning freely. If its not repeat the above steps

If you can’t do anything to the clutch, you might be able to use some fine sand paper to reduce the clutch lining just enough to clear the clutch. Remember that the clearance needs to be minor.


I hope thins helps. Good luck.

[hawkman]

Its definately jammed up, Vcampos is absolutely spot on with his solution.....it might be worth checking with Century....because if something isnt right then they will probably honor you with any parts that might have got broken.

Do check you starter shaft for excessive wear.


Another thing: check every single nut and bolt....a lot of it is factory fitted.....which is fine....but I found a problem with my tail rotor on my Hawk Sport....nothing was locktited...it was coming loose...its fine now.

Check and double check, it should become routine before and after every flying session.

That feeling of those first flights is sheer magic, I still get a buzz from flying these things:-)

Rob

Thank you All,

The information I recieved was right on the money, all is well now. My next problem seems to be starting the engine. I have a Toki .40 engine and have followed all of the instructions provided and still can get to light off. I'm not in a hurry, but I would like to light this thing off and let it run for a while. This is my first nitro heli, I really would liek to get everything working, atleast I can say I did it.

1G8tor

[hawkman]

Ok, first things first:

Take the glow plug out, connect to the glow batt...is it glowing?

Reinstall glow plug if its ok

double check the carb settings, check the engines manual...it should give you approximate settings , so the engine will run.

Check your throttle travel, if you are using the throttle trim for an engine shut off/throttle cut ....then check you have enough 'throw' in this region so the engine can actually idle let alone run....you are looking for about 10% ofthe throttle arm travel.....it shouldnt be any more than that.....in fact it may be less than 10% BE VERY CAREFUL otherwise you might end up with a clutch thats trying to engage due to higher revs.

In fact.....fit some head loaders to your craft....this will allow you to run the heli without blades....sort of a 'rolling road' for the heli......you can then tinker with the heli to your hearts content....allowing you to set up the proper idle and ensuring that your engine/throttle cut works....essential you need that engine to stop when commanded to do so.


Right, you have your head loaders on......radio and heli are 'on' engine kill switch is 'on' ALWAYS CHECK THE THROTTLE IS WHERE IT SHOULD BE....DOWN.

Engage the starter shaft and turn the engine over by hand...this is to make sure there is no blockage.
give the engine a whirl, observe the fuel line...there should be fuel making its way through to the carb....the engine should sound like its easier to turn over....the fuel is lubricating the cylinder.

Stop, apply glow plug, and engage starter shaft again, give it a whirl....the engine should be thinking about bursting into life.....its nice 'crackly cackly' sound will bounce off walls and echo around neighbourhood.....scaring small animals....mothers will be rushing out and dragging their kids indoors....whilst fathers will be observing and wishing they could be involved in such a cool hobby.......anyway!!! I got carried away:-)


if the engine refuses to start, adjust the throttle linkage....but only a bit at a time. NEVER FORGET TO HOLD ONTO THE ROTOR HEAD while starting, this is standard procedure....if the heli ever starts on half or full throttle you have control over the rotor head....the worst that can happen is a burnt out clutch and some embarassment...better that than 'death by a thousand cuts'

Once the engine is running, and idling nicely.....put the collective/throttle stick right down...the idle should be nice and stable...it should be able to idle 'forever' an unreliable idle could ruin things otherwise, once you get airborne later on.

Check the engine kill switch works. if it doesnt...then make adjustments till it does....you want a good idle...and a good engine shut down.....

Now thats acheived.......with engine running, push the thottle/collective up....the idling engine should speed up...theres not much transition till the clutch engages and the head loaders start to whirl around BE CAREFULL YOU DONT GET 'CLOCKED' dont let any part of your body get whacked.....it will hurt and you could easily damage the heli.

Steady the heli with a hand on the boom.....you could even peg the heli down using tent pegs etc on the landing gear.

Test the throttle right up to maximum power, there should be a noticable steady stream of smoke from the exhaust...this indicates the mixture is where it should be...the oil content keeps things lubricated and 'cool' running an engine too 'lean' will ruin it.

The adjustments are similar to a tap....ie if you turn the 'main needle' clockwise you 'lean' the mixture anticlockwise will 'richen' the mixture.....all adjustments are done gradually.....a little 'tweak' here and there works wonders with engine carbs.


With the engine idling....pinch the fuel line about 4 to 5 cms from the carb...keep it pinched...listen to the engine...after 2 to 3 seconds the engine should actually speed up ...because its starting to 'lean out' let go of the fuel line..the engine should die down and go back to a nice idle....this is a 'pinch test' which is a good indicator of your carbs 'low setting'

If you pinch the line and the engine dies out...you are too lean....richen the mixture....using the idle/low needle (usually found within the thottle barrel) dont use the larger 'main needle' thats for the higher 'range' of the engine

If the engine idles for more than 2 to 3 seconds then you will be too rich....so screw the idle/low needle in a little to 'lean' it



The main needle can only be adjusted with more power, I dont bother 'pinch testing' this I just aim for a steady increase in power with no 'hesitation' or 'bogging' hesitation means th mixture is not rich enough...bogging would indicate there is too much fuel...its too rich....so it needs leaning.


Generally, if the engine manual is well written and you follow the instructions...you shouldnt have too many problems, if any at all.

The real test will come when you bolt on the blades and go for those first flights, there might be some tweaking to do but that could well come down to altering your pitch and throttle curves.

Please keep in touch on this site.

Hope this all helps in your quest to get airborne;-)


Rob

WoW,

Thanks Rob, that was a lot of excellent information. I really appreciate the information. I think this will get me where I really want to go; Lite this Baby up. I'm very satisfied with the responses I get from this forum. Now I won't feel like I just don't understand the information. The engine manual is not that good, it does'nt really get into if you have a problem lighting the engine.

The engine is the new Toki engine, and has very little information. Hopefully I will have no problem with the information you've provided. Again thanks in advance for your assistance.

Greg

[Daz(DJLFlapper)]

Rob,

I must admit you had me laughing my gonads off at your advice, It is right on the money fella nice job. That bit about mother running out and grabbing there Kids was great.

Thanks for making my night,

Nice job with the advice.